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A Fresh Taste of Southern Cookin’: Q&A with Martha Stamps
“Cooking fresh gives us the flavor we all crave in our modern, homogenous lives.” –Martha Phelps Stamps
Locals, tourists and country music stars love Martha Stamps’ cooking. Year round they flock to her Nashville restaurant to enjoy the delectable, seasonally-inspired dishes that Martha uniquely prepares with fresh ingredients. Martha’s new book Martha’s at the Plantation: Seasonal Recipes from Belle Meade serves up a collection of recipes and cooking tips. Plenty of anecdotes and photographs also record the goings on at Martha’s restaurant on the grounds of the historic Belle Meade Plantation. Read on for cooking tips and recipes sure to make your Holiday meals taste great!
Can you give us a quick overview of what it means to cook fresh-from-the garden?
Cooking fresh within the seasons means keeping special things special-grapefruit in January, peaches in July and asparagus in May. It supports sustainable agriculture and keeps us in touch with the natural rhythms of our surroundings.
What are the advantages of cooking fresh?
Cooking fresh gives us the flavor we all crave in our modern homogenous lives. Fresh food needs only the simplest preparation to let that flavor shine.
When served a meal, can you immediately tell whether it’s been cooked fresh? How?
Again, fresh foods are usually simply prepared. Heavy sauces and seasonings can be an indication that something is being covered up or compensated for. Fresh foods have a brightness of color, aroma, texture and taste.
What tips would you offer to someone who wants to start cooking fresh and in season?
Visit your farmers' market and stick to what's in season. Pair dishes that have the same seasonality: grilled meats with tomatoes, basil, corn. Roasts with rosemary, turnips and apples. The more you place yourself within that season--the scents, sights, tastes and even memories--the more the flavors align themselves and make sense.
Of the celebrities who flock to your restaurant, who is the most memorable?
A new "star," Adrienne Young, was a server at Martha's for a few weeks
last year. Her two sisters are both still employed here. I am dedicated to the entire lot. Last night she and her band "Little Sadie" performed at Martha's for our first Nashville Slow Food Event. It was remarkable. Adrienne brings to her music the integrity which I pray one might associate with my food. She makes me humble. Her new CD, by the way, is entitled "Plow to the End of the Row." One of the songs was co-written by the author of the forward to Martha's, Alice Randall.
Of the 200 recipes in your book Martha's at the Plantation, which are your three favorites?
That's really hard to say. Right now I'm using tomato basil salad, pesto and watermelon salsa. Spicy kale, baked cheese grits and mashed sweet potatoes are cool weather favorites.
Watermelon Salsa
Makes about 2 quarts
1/4 seedless watermelon, diced
2 poblano peppers diced
1/2 red onion, minced
2 teaspoons fresh garlic
Juice of 3 limes
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons fresh chopped mint
Place all ingredients in a mixing bowl and toss together lightly
Baked Cheese Grits
Serves 5 to 6.
2 cups cream
2 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1 cup yellow grits or polenta
2 cups Parmesan cheese, shredded
1/2 cup buttermilk
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic
Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Grease a 2-quart baking dish.
In a medium sauce pan, bring the cream and water to a boil with the salt and white pepper. Add the grits or polenta, whisking. Cook over medium heat until thickened. Remove from the heat and add the cheese, mixing well to a smooth, creamy consistency. Add the buttermilk then the eggs and mix well. Pour into the baking dish and place in the center of the pre-heated oven. Bake until puffed and golden brown, approximately 30 minutes.
Spicy Kale
Serves 6-8.
1/4 cup olive oil
1 red onion, halved and sliced thinly
2 bunches kale, trimmed and rinsed
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon fresh chopped garlic
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 (28 ounce) can whole tomatoes with juice
1 tomato can water
2 tablespoons hot sauce
1/2 bottle beer
Heat olive oil in a deep sauté pan. Add onion and cook 5 minutes. Add kale and salt and stir, wilting the kale. Add garlic then red wine vinegar. Next add tomatoes, hot sauce and beer. (Drink the other half or give it to a friend.) Cook for 40 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Johnny’s Fried Turkey
This one actually belongs to Martha’s husband, John. According to Martha, “There is an unspoken American, if not universal, law which states that anything cooked out-of-doors falls within the male dominion. John, at least, took to turkey frying like a fish to water.” John prepared 45 turkeys for Thanksgiving last year. Here is his recipe.
2 tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon dried sage
1tablespoon garlic powder
2 teaspoons black pepper
2 teaspoons cayenne
1 (10-12) pound turkey, giblets removed, rinsed and patted dry
2 1/2 gallons peanut oil, approximately
Mix salt, sage, garlic powder, black pepper and cayenne together in a small mixing bow. Using gloves, rub the mixture all over the outside of the turkey and up under the skin, as well as in the cavity. Cover, refrigerate and let sit overnight.
An hour before frying, bring the turkey out of the refrigerator to get to room temperature. Follow the manufacturer’s directions to start a propane powered outdoor cooker or turkey fryer. (Note: these may be used only outdoors!). Heat the oil in the pot that comes with the cooker to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. (The amount of oil may vary, depending on the size of your cooker—again, see the manufacturer’s instructions.) Position the turkey onto the metal skewer, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Carefully place in the hot oil, uncovered, and cook for 3 1/2 minutes per pound.
Remove from the oil and let cool before removing the skewer. Serve warm or at room temperature.
More about the book: Martha's at the Plantation